Escrito originalmente por RikoRocket en 31 de Diciembre del 2008
Introduction
This modification allows full two analogue car racing on a PB-ProSH set-up. Special code has been written to enable a second PWM stream to be controlled by throttle number 2.
Additional to these modifications that automate separation of lane 1 from lane 2 at the powerbase, all links at lane changers and other Scalextric ancillaries will need to be cut. Actually only the right rail links need to be cut as the left rail remains as a common earth
This rates at my difficulty rating 9/10. Micro-soldering to the ends of tiny surface mount components is hazardous and extremely difficult. Getting everything into the space is also a bit of a squeeze. Note the relay used is only rated at 8 Amps, you can substitute something larger if you are expecting to have a very high continual current draw, but this was the only one that we got to fit inside the case. As all electronics go through a de-rating process then it should be good for bursts of current well above this without failing.
We mount it on veroboard or the heat transmission into the relay on soldering destroys the relay.
The chosen relay takes too much current for the PIC. It needs 80mA & a PIC output pin is only good for 25 mA. We have used an analogue transistor as an emitter follower. Base driven through the resistor 47 ohm, that's already on the board from pin 8 (RB0), collector to 5 Volts, emitter to coil, other side of coil to ground.
What do you need?
Parts needed for this are:
One piece of veroboard 36mm x 24mm – number of holes 14x8
One double acting two pole relay Farnell 8 Amp DPCO 5V coil. Part
number 109-4015
One transistor farnell 146-7866 npn to-92 bc338
Wires to suit
Dremel and ball cutter
Double sided carpet tape
Soldering iron, solder
Preparation
Disassemble base and top of your powerbase, to leave just the board and the track. To disconnect the display from the main board push out the locking black tab (white on some) and then pull out the flexi (noting for reassembly that the blue bit is uppermost.
Remove the two screws retaining your S-H board. Disconnect the wires on M1 and M2. Bend the board away from the processor to give access
Relay sub-assembly
Mill the verobard down the centre to split the tracks using your Dremel and ball cutter.
Identify the coil end of the relay – its the end with two pins rather than six. Mount the relay to the vero board centrally but leaving two whole rows of holes at the coil end. Solder it in place.
On the six pins, add a red wire to link the upper left to the lower right. This takes power so make sure it is a thick wire.
Now bend the legs on the transistor so that they are in line and the correct pitch to fit the veroboard
Fit to the veroboard. Flat side of the transistor closest to the relay. Other two legs are using the two rows of pins we left.
Beside the middle leg solder a blue wire
Beside the end pin solder a red wire
Beside the opposite teminal for the coil solder a black wire.
Dummies guide to converting PB-ProSH to full 2 lane analogue
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Escrito originalmente por RikoRocket en 31 de Diciembre del 2008
Subassembly is ready
Changes to Simple-H board
Move jumper/ minishunt from EA to EAB.
Connect a green wire to terminal EB input
New connections to main board
Four new wires going down onto main board, three from the relay subassembly, one from the Simple-H board. Red to 5V, black to 0V, green and blue wires to processor. Note green wire is this side of 47 Ohm resistor, but blue is far side of 47 Resistor. (they are not connected)
Main power wiring changes
Now the power wires to the track have to be changed to be routed through the relay as per the following diagram:
Finishing off
Refit the simple-H board mounting screws.
Place a piece of double-sided carpet tape on the relay and stick the subassembly on top of the processor. Note the fore/aft position is critical if you want to get the top on.
Reassemble base and top. Do not forget to reconnect the display, it is quite tricky (you have been warned!)
Contact me for a cut of the two car analogue code for PBProEsp and upload it.
Get out your old cars and have fun
Cheers
Riko
Editado 31 de Diciembre del 2008 por RikoRocket
Subassembly is ready
Changes to Simple-H board
Move jumper/ minishunt from EA to EAB.
Connect a green wire to terminal EB input
New connections to main board
Four new wires going down onto main board, three from the relay subassembly, one from the Simple-H board. Red to 5V, black to 0V, green and blue wires to processor. Note green wire is this side of 47 Ohm resistor, but blue is far side of 47 Resistor. (they are not connected)
Main power wiring changes
Now the power wires to the track have to be changed to be routed through the relay as per the following diagram:
Finishing off
Refit the simple-H board mounting screws.
Place a piece of double-sided carpet tape on the relay and stick the subassembly on top of the processor. Note the fore/aft position is critical if you want to get the top on.
Reassemble base and top. Do not forget to reconnect the display, it is quite tricky (you have been warned!)
Contact me for a cut of the two car analogue code for PBProEsp and upload it.
Get out your old cars and have fun
Cheers
Riko
Editado 31 de Diciembre del 2008 por RikoRocket
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Escrito originalmente por chemari en 31 de Diciembre del 2008
for pb. pro is posible to a long time?
for pb. pro is posible to a long time?
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Escrito originalmente por RikoRocket en 8 de Enero del 2009
At the moment this is only possible with simple H, the mosfet configuration in SSD standard does not allow lane separation.
Anything is possible, it just takes timechemari escribió:for pb. pro is posible to a long time?
At the moment this is only possible with simple H, the mosfet configuration in SSD standard does not allow lane separation.
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Escrito originalmente por chemari en 13 de Enero del 2009
thank you very muchRikoRocket escribió:Anything is possible, it just takes time :)At the moment this is only possible with simple H, the mosfet configuration in SSD standard does not allow lane separation.
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Escrito originalmente por RikoRocket en 6 de Enero del 2010
Curve lane changers have to be modified like this.
Curve lane changers have to be modified like this.
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Escrito originalmente por jmkinki en 12 de Enero del 2010
Como yo no soy tan hábil con el soldador... más bien soy un manazas... he hecho una gran chapuza:
Tal y como se puede ver en Foto 1 he levantado con un pequeño destornillador las pestañas de los raíles.
Luego he metido la punta del cable por dentro, y he vuelto a apretar la pestaña... tal y como se ve en Foto 2
Como he usado un cable muy gordo... el típico de un enchufe, me ha quedado regular, pero bueno funciona!!! Y eso es lo que importa.
Os lo dejo dicho por si hay alguien tan torpe como yo con el soldador en la mano....
Editado 12 de Enero del 2010 por jmkinki
Como yo no soy tan hábil con el soldador... más bien soy un manazas... he hecho una gran chapuza:
Tal y como se puede ver en Foto 1 he levantado con un pequeño destornillador las pestañas de los raíles.
Luego he metido la punta del cable por dentro, y he vuelto a apretar la pestaña... tal y como se ve en Foto 2
Como he usado un cable muy gordo... el típico de un enchufe, me ha quedado regular, pero bueno funciona!!! Y eso es lo que importa.
Os lo dejo dicho por si hay alguien tan torpe como yo con el soldador en la mano....
Editado 12 de Enero del 2010 por jmkinki
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Escrito originalmente por chemari en 12 de Enero del 2010
La idea es buena, eso si, yo utilizaria cable del que venden en tiendas de componentes o en tiendas de electricidad del que se utiliza para los telefonillos de la calle.... es mucho mas fino y te quedara mejor, yo tengo soldada la pista por de bajo con ese cable y va muy bien.
Lo importante es que funcione ...¿no?jmkinki escribió:Mar Ene 12, 2010 9:47 pmComo yo no soy tan hábil con el soldador... más bien soy un manazas... he hecho una gran chapuza:
Tal y como se puede ver en Foto 1 he levantado con un pequeño destornillador las pestañas de los raíles.
Luego he metido la punta del cable por dentro, y he vuelto a apretar la pestaña... tal y como se ve en Foto 2
Como he usado un cable muy gordo... el típico de un enchufe, me ha quedado regular, pero bueno funciona!!! Y eso es lo que importa.
Os lo dejo dicho por si hay alguien tan torpe como yo con el soldador en la mano....
La idea es buena, eso si, yo utilizaria cable del que venden en tiendas de componentes o en tiendas de electricidad del que se utiliza para los telefonillos de la calle.... es mucho mas fino y te quedara mejor, yo tengo soldada la pista por de bajo con ese cable y va muy bien.